Jules Polonetsky
For Jewish consumers, the arrival of Passover often signals a temporary farewell to beloved spirits. When the festive spirit calls for a L’Chaim, the kosher-for-Passover laws mean that the grain-based scotch and bourbon popular at shul kiddush clubs are unavailable, leaving many to seek an alternative spirit. Increasingly, that alternative is tequila.
For a long time, tequila has been the “best known accessible spirit that seems to have some quality” available during Pesach. However, according to Yechiel Chovav, a certified Master Mezcalier, a designation certified by the Mexican government, many consumers may not realize the depth of the category they are tapping into.
“Tequila is a subcategory of mezcal,” Chovav explained, introducing the broader world of agave distillates. The complexity of mezcal, he argues, is far more similar to the world of wine than it is to vodka or rum, or even whiskey.”
Chovav, who came to mezcal appreciation through his passion for wine, attested that the complexity in agave spirits is both historical and scientific. He noted that “agave distillates have exponentially more flavor and aroma compounds than any other distillate.” This profound complexity stems from several factors, especially the sheer diversity of the raw material and the time it spends in the ground.
While only blue agave is used for tequila, mezcal production can utilize around 40 to 50 varieties of agave. Furthermore, the base material for agave spirits matures over an exceptionally long time. “The quickest maturing Agave is in the ground for five to seven years,” Chovav said, while some take 30 years to mature. This long maturation process means it is going to have “a lot of terroir impact, even more than wine.”
While tequila has become the default Pesach drink, Chovav noted that, paradoxically, mezcal is “actually less of an issue for kashrut.”
This distinction is based on purity and transparency. Tequila, even at the basic level, is allowed to contain up to 1% of additives — including glycerin, oak extract, vanilla and caramel — without needing to disclose them on the bottle. Because of this, primarily tequila brands which do not have any additives are recommended by kosher authorities. Chovav noted that Patron Silver, for example, is additive-free and is a “solid” choice.
By contrast, some mezcal categories are strictly regulated for purity. The highest quality level, ancestral mezcal, is defined by process and what it doesn’t contain: “If it says mezcal ancestral, there’s nothing in it besides the agave and water.” This level of quality generally avoids concerns about aging in barrels previously used for wine, as aging in barrels is a relatively new practice introduced to help the tequila industry break into the whiskey market.
However, one must be careful to avoid the mezcals that do have flavorings. For example, pechuga mezcal involves a process where meat (often chicken or turkey breast) is added during the third distillation for flavor. Fortunately, this is always disclosed on the label, as these are special bottles for special occasions. For consumers looking for certified kosher-for-Passover options, Chovav pointed to Amaras, which produces a number of certified agave varieties available, and Montelobos, which even makes a kosher fleishig pechuga. As always, check with the kosher certifying authorities or your local rabbi for details, as I am just sharing some of the general issues that are
of interest.
The heart of mezcal production lies in Oaxaca, where over 90% of the world’s mezcal is produced. Chovav noted that visiting distilleries there is easy and welcoming, offering a glimpse into a category where the traditional methods are “super unique to every area.”
In an interesting development for the Jewish world, Israel is also entering the agave business. A company called Negave has planted agave in the Negev, which Chovav explained has a very similar climate and soil to the “Tequila Valley” region in Mexico. While a fully Israeli-grown product is projected for the first harvest around 2029 due to the necessary maturation time, two expressions of a kosher-for-Passover Negave, distilled in Mexico and aged in Israeli wine barrels, are currently available through siptequila.com.
For those who already appreciate the nuances of a good vintage, Chovav issued a friendly warning: “The more you learn about agave, the more you appreciate it. The more you understand it. The warning I would give people is that if they do give it a fair chance it’ll take over their life”. He concluded that for those who “love the complexities of wine and the nuances of wine regions, and grape varieties and wine making methods, this is definitely a rabbit hole that you will enjoy going down.”
Chovav may be the first Jewish certified Master Mezcalier and almost certainly the first with kosher expertise. You can follow him on Instagram:
@YechielDrinks. Feel free to contact him if you have questions.
Jules Polonetsky is a Wine and Spirits Education Trust Level 3 certified wine expert who edits a wine education website at kosher-wine.org. He is a former consumers affairs commissioner for New York City.
