Jules Polonetsky
As Passover approaches, it is time to think about your wine selections. My focus has often been on the seder, prioritizing easy drinking, lower-alcohol wines to help with the tradition of consuming four cups. A sparkling wine for the first cup is a great choice, setting a celebratory tone and being pleasant on an empty stomach. Consider high-end Rosé Champagne (like Jeeper, Rothschild, or Drappier), top sparkling wines from Israel (Yarden, Raziel), or one of the many available Moscatos.
However, with multiple holiday meals and traditional dishes beyond the seder plate, applying some basic food and wine pairing principles can significantly enhance your dining experience throughout the week.
The Golden Rules of Wine Pairing
The most important rule is simple: Always choose a wine you enjoy. There are no strict laws. That said, common sense guides most successful pairings. Just as certain flavors clash (like orange juice after brushing your teeth), food can drastically change how a wine tastes. A well-matched wine, however, is a great enhancer, making the wine taste softer, sweeter, and fruitier.
Here are the four key interactions to keep in mind:
- Salty Foods: Salt can soften a wine’s tannins, making bold, tannic wines feel smoother and more palatable.
- Acidic Foods: The acidity in food can balance and soften wines that are highly acidic.
- Sweet Foods: For a dessert wine, the sweetness of the food should match or slightly exceed the sweetness of the wine. Otherwise, the wine may taste thin or bitter.
- Spicy Foods: High-alcohol wines will taste “hotter” and harsher when paired with spicy food. Choose lower-alcohol options for heat.
Passover Dish Pairings
Here are suggestions for pairing wines with classic seder and holiday week dishes:
Matzah (Plain or with Butter/Shmear)
Matzah is essentially a blank canvas, but its dry, brittle texture poses a challenge. You need a wine with high acidity to keep your palate refreshed.
- The Pairing: A crisp Sauvignon Blanc or a dry Chenin Blanc.
- Why It Works: The wine’s bright, citrusy notes cut through the “dustiness” of the matzah. If you add salt, the acidity will make those salty flavors “pop” without overwhelming the simple unleavened bread.
Matzah Brei
This comforting dish is fried and egg-based, giving it a rich, fatty quality that requires a wine with “lift” (acidity and effervescence).
- The Pairing: Cava, Prosecco, or a sparkling wine from California, Israel, or France. Bubbles are a fatty food’s best friend.
- Savory (with salt and pepper): A dry Brut Rosé is excellent, as the salt in the food will make the wine taste fruitier.
- Sweet (with cinnamon or jam): Choose a semi dry (Demi Sec) sparkling wine, such as a Sparkling Moscato, to mirror the sugar and prevent the wine from tasting thin.
Matzah Ball Soup
Often called “Jewish penicillin,” this is a delicate balance of savory schmaltz (chicken fat), vegetables and the dumpling itself. A heavy red wine will overwhelm the subtle dill and celery notes.
- The Pairing (White): An oaked Chardonnay. The buttery finish of many oaked Chardonnays complements the richness of the schmaltz. For a lighter broth, a crisp unoaked Chardonnay is a great choice.
- The Pairing (Red): A chilled Pinot Noir. It is light enough not to drown out the broth while still providing enough structure to match a dense matzah ball.
Potato Kugel
Kugel is a starch-heavy, salt-forward dish defined by its creamy center and crispy, oily edges.
- The Pairing: Viognier or a dry Riesling.
- Why It Works: Riesling’s natural acidity and stone fruit notes (peach, apricot) balance the earthiness of the potatoes. A Viognier offers a slightly fuller body that matches the kugel’s density. An oaked Chardonnay is another good choice for its buttery notes.
The Main Course: Roast Brisket or Rib Roast
This is the time to bring out your biggest, boldest wines. Dishes rich in protein and fat act as a perfect buffer for tannins, which makes them ideal for full-bodied red wines.
- Brisket (Savory Sweet/Braised): A Syrah. Its smoky, peppery notes complement the long braised, complex profile of brisket.
- Herb Crusted Roast (Garlic and Rosemary): A bold Cabernet from regions like the Judean Hills will have the structure to stand up to the strong herbs.
The Main Course: Roast Chicken
- The Pairing: A Grenache or Merlot. These have softer tannins and red fruit flavors that provide enough body for the meal without overpowering the poultry.
Passover already involves significant planning, so do not let wine pairing add stress. A little knowledge of these basic ideas can guide your shopping and enhance your meals. Enjoy!
Jules Polonetsky is a Wine and Spirits Education Trust Level 3 certified wine expert who edits a wine education website at kosher-wine.org. He is a former consumers affairs commissioner for New York City.
