Jules Polonetsky
While many of us are enjoying the beginning of spring weather and flowers blooming, others are returning from spring break trips and Passover family holiday visits. If wine is on your summer travel agenda, now is the time to book appointments at the leading U.S. kosher wineries.
Although there are wineries that can provide a kosher tasting by special arrangement, this column will focus on the major kosher wineries that can easily be booked online for kosher tours that can include food, wine and a tour of the winery. This means a California excursion, starting in Napa Valley, driving to nearby Berkeley and then down to Oxnard.
Right now, California’s vineyards are currently in the throes of bud break. In the cooler reaches of Napa’s Los Carneros and the windy corridors of the Central Coast, the dormant brown vines are suddenly punctuated by vibrant, neon-green shoots.
This is a precarious time. Vintners are on high alert for late-spring frosts that can wither tender new growth in a single night. Parallel to this “frost watch,” vineyard teams are beginning the labor-intensive process of manually removing secondary shoots to ensure the vine’s energy is concentrated on the primary fruit-bearing buds. When you visit this summer, the lush canopy you’ll walk under is being “architected” by hand at this very moment.
Hagafen Cellars: The Napa Estate Experience
Located on the storied Silverado Trail, Hagafen Cellars is the essential starting point for any Napa Valley excursion. Established in 1979 by Ernie Weir, Hagafen holds the distinction of being a true estate-driven winery, and its commitment to the terroir of the region is evident in every bottle.
A summer visit to the Hagafen estate is a masterclass in agricultural precision. The tasting experience is primarily held on a charming outdoor patio with garden-side views, literally surrounded by their Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards. This proximity to the vines allows visitors to witness the “veraison” (the changing of grape colors) firsthand during the late summer months.
Hagafen offers several tiers of tasting. While the Signature Flight provides a broad overview, the Reserve Reds tasting is where the connoisseur should linger. This flight features limited-production wines from the Prix and Don Ernesto labels, wines often not found in retail shops. Pay close attention to their Syrah and the high-acidity Rieslings sourced from the cooler Coombsville AVA. Founder Weir is often credited as being one of the first to successfully make mevushal wines without affecting the quality, and all his wines are mevushal.
Covenant
A short drive south from Napa brings you to Berkeley’s “Drinks District,” home to Covenant Wines. Founded by Jeff Morgan and Leslie Rudd, Covenant represents the urban winemaking philosophy. Rather than being tied to one estate, they source premium fruit from across the state. You won’t get to see a vineyard, but rather the Covenant winery and tasting room, a converted warehouse that often echoes with jazz and offers a hip, industrial energy. Check the Covenant web site for regular special events and you may be lucky enough to catch Morgan playing the saxophone. A delicious mezze platter is available, providing a meal, if you wish. Covenant is also home to winemakers Jonathan Hajdu and Sagie Kleinlerer, who each have their own eponymous lines of wines produced at Covenant. If you are lucky enough to spot them, each will fill you in on the process behind Covenant wines and their own boutique winemaking.
In Berkeley, I usually stay at the Claremont Hotel, a lovely hotel only a few minutes from Covenant. Your next stop is a six-hour drive down the coast to Oxnard, home of industry giant Herzog. Flying to LA and driving an hour and a half to Herzog is also an option.
The sheer scale of their Herzog facility is impressive, but the highlight of a Herzog visit is undoubtedly Tierra Sur. Widely regarded as one of the finest kosher restaurants in the country, it utilizes the bounty of the Central Coast for a farm-to-table menu. As in fine Michelin-starred restaurants, a wine pairing menu with wines selected for each course is available.
Do you want to skip the long drive south? Consider adding a Napa visit to Mayacamas Vineyards. Perched on the steep slopes of Mount Veeder, Mayacamas is a legend of Napa history. A non-kosher winery that now has established a regular kosher production, Mayacamas offers 90-minute, privately guided exploration dives into their unique mountain terroir and historic cellars. At $165 per person, it is an investment, but the reward is a tasting of some of the most classically styled, non-mevushal Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay in the world.
As mentioned above, there are other fantastic California boutique kosher producers, or non-kosher producers that have some kosher labels, and often a visit can be arranged, albeit with some coordination and personal outreach.
Expert Planning Tips
- Book Early: The available slots go quickly and if you have a specific travel schedule, you will want to lock in your time. Reservations can be made at the winery websites.
- Exclusive Wines: Covenant and Hagafen have premium lines that are only available at the winery or to their wine club members. Herzog has special events exclusively for wine club members, and it may be worth joining their club for if your timing works out. Load up a suitcase to save shipping or buy a case for free shipping, but whatever you do, ensure your wine will not be exposed to heat during its cross-country journey back home.
- Temperature Matters: Summer in the valley is hot, but it cools at night. Dress in layers, as the cellars (especially at Mayacamas) remain a constant, chilly 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Children: Check ahead! Some locations are quite child friendly. Winemaking equipment, giant barrels and a vineyard tour can be fascinating for city kids. Mayacamas includes some mountain terroir, and reservations are for adults only.
Is California not in your plans? Considering a European vacation? Zev Steinberg of KosherWineJourneys.com is offering several Bordeaux kosher tours in June. If you want the French Old World wine experience, rather than New World California, this is a lovely trip.
L’Chaim!
Jules Polonetsky is a Wine and Spirits Education Trust Level 3 certified wine expert who edits a wine education website at kosher-wine.org. He is a former consumers affairs commissioner for New York City.
