The red wine that thinks it’s a white


The wines of the Beaujolais region in eastern France are readily identifiable, especially in their youth. Beaujolais wines are nearly all representative of a unique style of delicious, fruity, fresh, red wines (from the gamay noir grape) that have the weight, structure and balance of a white wine.

Red Beaujolais wines typically exhibit relatively high acidity, low tannins and “bracing poise,” as the wine writer Andrew Jefford put it. Similar to white wines, Beaujolais is best served slightly chilled.

The availability of kosher Beaujolais in the United States has ebbed and flowed over the years. It is set for something of a comeback. The Washington-based JCommerce Group, the parent company of the online kosher wine retail websites and, have begun bringing in Beaujolais Nouveau and two Cru Beaujolais wines — a Côte de Brouilly and a Juliénas.

Duc de Pagny, Beaujolais Nouveau, 2017 ($12): Even though this is now well past the traditional drinking window for this style of Beaujolais, it is surprisingly still quite yummy. It’s gotten dark and a bit hefty, with the black cherry in overdrive, but really very pretty and tasty (it has thrown a lot of sediment). I wouldn’t hold onto it for much longer, but don’t hesitate to buy more and enjoy over the near term.

Louis Blanc, Côte de Brouilly, Domaine La Ferrage, (Beaujolais), 2014 ($20): Light, fruity and lovely with soft tannins and nice acidity, offering aromas and flavors of ripe raspberries, blackberries, cherries, boysenberries and dark plums, a subtle whiff of smoke and just a bit of earthiness. From first sip to last, this is immensely satisfying.

Louis Blanc, Juliénas, (Beaujolais), 2015 ($20): This is lovely, fun and delicious. Generously aromatic with beautiful fruity and floral notes — strawberries, peaches, red currants, violets, peonies, mild cinnamon, perhaps a touch of muted bubblegum and an endearing earthy richness. With mild but silky tannins and solid balancing acidity, this is simply delightful. L’chaim!

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